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Hanoi

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When I first arrived in Hanoi from Luang Prabang, Laos I was overwhelmed by how busy it was in comparison. Making my way around the old quarter on foot I was accosted by scooters from every direction, it's a very dangerous place to be a pedestrian. Thankfully I met an expat who gave me some good advice.. simply walk slowly and calmly across the road without stopping and the scooters will avoid you - amazingly this works. I enjoyed walking and people watching around Hoan Kiem Lake; old ladies gossiping on the bench, young folk exercising, even bridesmaids out on  photo shoots. You're never too far from reminders about the nation's revolutionary socialist roots. I visited the notorious Hanoi Hotel, the prison built by the French and used to suppress and torture revolutionaries: later it was used by the Vietnamese to hold US PoWs, including John McCain. The pain and suffering still clings to the walls of the building and I became very emotional at the unbelievable cruelty huma

The Ha Giang Loop

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In Northern Vietnam there is a famous biking route called the Ha Giang Loop. It has fast replaced the over-commercialized Sapa as the quintessential spot for exploring the incredible scenery of Northern Vietnam which comprises dramatic limestone karst mountains and terraced rice paddy fields.   Many travelers take 4 days or more to explore the loop and there are numerous detours off the main route.  I wasn't confident enough to rent a bike this time and do it solo, some areas are quite remote and you're definitely better off with a buddy or a group.  So I opted for the Easy Rider tour through Cheers Hostel in Hanoi - a three day, two night expedition on the back of a bike - which meant I could leave the sometimes challeging driving to an experienced local and simply enjoy the ride.  My driver was called Mike and after a couple of hours I had total confidence in him.  Great guy, he always made sure I had my protective gear on and he was very skilled in controlling the bike aroun