Hanoi

When I first arrived in Hanoi from Luang Prabang, Laos I was overwhelmed by how busy it was in comparison. Making my way around the old quarter on foot I was accosted by scooters from every direction, it's a very dangerous place to be a pedestrian. Thankfully I met an expat who gave me some good advice.. simply walk slowly and calmly across the road without stopping and the scooters will avoid you - amazingly this works.

I enjoyed walking and people watching around Hoan Kiem Lake; old ladies gossiping on the bench, young folk exercising, even bridesmaids out on  photo shoots.

You're never too far from reminders about the nation's revolutionary socialist roots.

I visited the notorious Hanoi Hotel, the prison built by the French and used to suppress and torture revolutionaries: later it was used by the Vietnamese to hold US PoWs, including John McCain.

The pain and suffering still clings to the walls of the building and I became very emotional at the unbelievable cruelty humans can inflict on each other. Traveling is not all sunshine and rainbows; it's also an opportunity to explore humanitys dark side and acknowledge sadder chapters of our history.

After the prison I needed a pick me up so I located one of the best places for egg coffee in the city, a 'secret' cafe tucked away behind a luggage store. I was dubious about egg coffee, but trust me, it was amazing. Frothy and creamy on top with hot strong Vietnamese coffee at the bottom....delicious!!

Later that night I visited Bia Street, a whole area dedicated to pubs and street food that is popular with both tourists and young Vietnamese alike.

The same place a few days later was much quieter as locals started to self isolate and businesses and museums shut down.  An eerie calm steadily descended on the city.

I had the good fortune of making a local friend, Mai Anh - she is a naturopathic doctor and an economist with numerous business interests in the city. She was kind enough to give me a tour of Hanoi at night on the back of her scooter.

Without much else to do I enjoyed some great meals, my favourite local dish being Bun Cha - a marinated pork that is brought to the table sizzling on a hot plate.

Pho at 'Pho 10' was also a staple, this delicious Pho Chin had lean slices of beef and a broth with a complex savory flavour

Honourable mention to PK's Indian for the largest naan I have ever eaten with this super tasty veggie thali.

Hanoi grew on me, I recoiled from my initial impressions, but as I saw its humanity and cultural richness I grew to love it. I will look forward to returning in better times.